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Taking the Cake

From frosting to fondant, here are tips for choosing sweet-tasting dessert

I love dessert.

I wish it weren't true, especially now, as I'm trying to shed a few pounds before my upcoming nuptials. Alas, my sweet tooth is going nowhere and I dream of my wedding cake.

My top priority: taste. No waxy wedding cake at this bride's nuptials.

"Weddings cakes have gotten a bad rap because so often the focus has been on the decorating rather than the taste and texture of the cake," says Sarah Phillips, CEO and founder of popular baker's site, Baking911.com. Phillips says there's good news for lovers of cake, however. "The trend seems to be moving towards concern about what's underneath the frosting, too. Because of the intense interest in good ingredients and nutrition, brides have become pickier and more educated about what goes into their cake. Sampling cakes and frosting before selecting a wedding cake has become popular."

I'm way ahead of her. I've scheduled several tastings and look forward to them more than all the other things on my "to-do" list. I mean, are you kidding me? Free cake?!

The taste, I've learned, has a direct relationship to the design of the cake, which is something I'll do well to remember as I'm flipping through books of cake masterpieces. "A cake may look beautiful, but if it doesn't taste good, then that's money poorly spent," advises Colorado-based Tanya Porter, a professional wedding planner and coordinator for more than 18 years. " There's a big difference in the way each bakery does their fondant. A bride should ask to try it. I've had some fondants that would melt in your mouth they were thin and wonderful, but I've also had thick, leathery fondant. This is what you want to stay away from and why it's very important you have a professional do the cake."

Hmm. Too bad. I had thought about saving a buck and going with my Aunt Jane. She does make a mean scone, after all.

"Don't let Aunt Jane talk you into letting her do the cake unless she's a professional," warns Porter. "There's so much at stake; the cake might fall, melt on the way to the reception, et cetera. All these are things a professional will take into account." Fair enough, though Phillips says that it's not impossible for an amateur baker to whip up a serviceable wedding cake. "Cakes can be baked two months in advance and frozen, and Web sites ... give you step-by-step instruction on how to prepare and present your own wedding cake. Or, hire a student from a pastry school to decorate or even bake your homemade cake for you." What seems to be consistent among the experts is that if you want the "ooh" and the "ahh" and the four-tiered, triple-truffle, German chocolate extravaganza of your dreams, hire someone with experience. Lots of it.

While we're on the subject of triple-truffles, trends in wedding cakes are pretty mouth-watering right now. "Just about anything goes," says Porter. "Chocolate is becoming more popular - every layer can be a different flavor with different fillings. Some brides are choosing to do individual cupcakes instead of a traditional cake. Fondant is still the most popular because it can be molded into just about any cake a bride wants.The traditional white cake, white frosting, with roses is pretty much gone. Instead, brides are opting for color, fantasy, cakes that depict their personalities and interests."

Porter says she had a groom's cake last year made with a 3-D figure of the groom waterskiing with the Rocky Mountains behind him, for example.

The trendy stuff will cost you, so watch out. Cost varies widely by region, but on average, figure that you'll be spending, well, kind of a lot.

"I've seen cakes in the range of $3.50 to $15/slice," says Porter. "There's actually a bakery going in the Vail/ Beaver Creek/Aspen area that charge $25 to 50 a slice." The fondant and the special additions (i.e., gourmet chocolate, organic ingredients) are what add to the cost and make many lose their appetite for dessert altogether.

And, just when you thought you were done after ordering the cake, you've got other desserts to think about. Most brides, including this one, are choosing to serve other sweets after dinner to satisfy the wide range of dessert connoisseurs at the party. "Brides seem to be more aware of serving their guests with special food needs, such as providing gluten- or lactose-free cakes, cookies and other treats, so everyone feels welcome," says Phillips. "I have also been asked for more casual recipes such as fruit crisps and cobblers and ice cream toppings for ice cream dessert open bars, mini pie recipes for fall events, Bûche de Noël (Christmas Yule Cake Log) for the holidays, and of course, cupcakes all year round."

Good luck, fellow brides. See you in spinning class.

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